Thursday, December 27, 2012

Making Progress on My 1978 CB400T II

Through late fall I was able to make enough progress on the bike to actually get it on the road and ridable.  The goal was to get some runs in to see how the engine is performing. Needless to say after sitting for close to 15 years, it needs some work - valve and carb adjustments from what I can tell. Otherwise it starts right up, and runs.

After rebuilding the front end and replacing the blinkers, headlight, and rear brake/tail light; the last item I needed to address in order to start riding was the front disc brake. The old caliper was so caked with dried brake fluid that it needed to be disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt. After assessing the master cylinder, it was actually cheaper to replace it entirely then rebuilding it. I purchased a cheap, spare, used caliper off eBay to cannibalize some parts - brake pads, brake pad pins, pad pin clip, and other parts. This worked out really well for the price and it saved me a bunch of money. All the other boots, seals, and the bleeder valve I purchased new from my local Honda dealer, those parts were expensive; was just happy I didn't have to replace the piston, it was pitted in spots but nothing bad enough to keep me from reusing it.


Purchased a replacement brake hose, I should have ordered a shorter hose to accommodate the lower handle bars and the lowering of the front forks; but I was able to make it work. Purchased off eBay pretty cheap.


DCC Master Cylinder
Like I said, I also replaced the master cylinder with (SKU: 717-652) from Dime City Cycles. It bolted right on the bike and included the brake light switch (some do not). Note, the MC requires and does not include the bolt to hold the fluid reservoir bracket in position; you'll need a short bolt or a mirror, I used a mirror. I also needed to replace the female flag spade terminal ends on the bike's harness to accommodate the brake light switch on the MC. DCC did not have them, I was able to find suitable connectors at RadioShack, those connectors are the 3/16th type. You can also purchase after market brass connectors at www.cycleterminal.com.


Click here to view the video showing speed bleeding with a vacuum pump. I purchased a cheap one from Harbor Freight; you get what you pay for. It worked out fine, but I should have purchase the MityVac for a few more dollars. HB carries the MityVac as well. I was able to do this work on my own, did not need a second person to do any pumping; and even though the Clymer's Manual calls for DOT3 brake fluid, the dealer recommended and sold me DOT4 brake fluid. Building the seat is next.